Cyclone: Electric Bicycle Transmission

At last - this site UPDATED!

A Hub Motor is the easiest way to motorise a bicycle but it is a single gear-ratio system, and so it is a compromise between hill-climbing and speed. Electric motors (and their electronics) have a flexible power-band - moreso than infernal combustion engines that must have gears - but they have their limits.

If you want a hub motor, then take a look at the 'nano' - www.nanoelectricbikes.co.uk

For some applications the Cyclone motor is too wide (not everyone likes the offset cranks!) and so I designed an interesting way to use a nano (or any other front wheel hub motor), but driving the chainwheel - the pronto

The Cyclone offers you a range of motors, controllers, batteries, drive systems and fittings to suit (almost!) any bike:

MTB	Town	Folder	Trike (pdf document)	Semi-Recumbent	'bent Trike

Cyclone systems are specific to each application and so we offer advice and components that help you get the ride you need. Working with Cyclone in Taiwan (www.cyclone-tw.com) our battery partner (www.pingbattery.com) in China and electronics from USA (www.castlecreations.com and www.kellycontroller.com) you get the best price and help from an experienced designer.

Contact Tony Castles on 07974 723996 - tony@mr-motorvator.co.uk

Cyclone explained: The Cyclone is not a 'one-trick pony' - it has several options of transmission, motor, controller and battery leading to dozens of designs! What you choose depends on your type of bike and required performance

One Freewheel (direct-drive):	Two Freewheel (mid-drive):	Two Chainring:
Counter-Clockwise rotation	Clockwise rotation	Clockwise rotation
The 'original' kit that suits frames with sufficient room behind and below the bottom bracket. The freewheel chainwheel is optional	The twin-freewheel setup suits long frames that have a front changer. A recumbent is a good example - the motor can be fitted on the boom or under the seat	Possibly the 'best' setup, putting the motor where it can be drier and less easily damaged
the motor gets wet and exposed to damage the 44T chainwheel won't suit all frames/gear ratios eccentric crank required on a standard frame (so pedals don't hit the motor)	needs a longer chainrun to allow front and rear derailleurs to work assistance only delivered on rear gear ratios	the motor can be fitted further away so eccentric crank not needed special chainset needed to suit gearings


The standard motor has an internal controller and operates at 24V. The motor may need additional weatherproofing especially if fitted beneath the bike. We can seal the motor at additional cost, but it#s best to use an external controller	Motors are available without internal controllers that can operate at 24-48V to deliver higher power and torque. The Cyclone controller is absolutely huge and still only 20Amp rated! A more capable and much smaller controller is available from us.
Trends in shrinking controllers: as MOSFETS (the semiconductor switches that control motor current) get smaller and with lower 'ON' resistance, so controllers become smaller, lighter and run cooler. The miniature controller (on right) I use has a tiny circuit that interfaces to throttle, brake and pedal and speed sensor

Pre and post sale we provide technical support and have test and repair capability to keep your bike on the road.

Look in detail at the installations above and you will see variations in the way each one operates:

they can drive the chain or chainwheel (or a double freewheel)
various gear ranges and chainsets
different motor type, power and voltage
the motor controller can be internal or external to the motor
choice of controller, speed and power limits
the battery may be Lithium (Ion or Iron Phosphate), NiMh or SLA
speed control by twist or thumb control

If you have specific need of speed, power, torque or fitting then we can help. You get the suppliers price for the parts you need and we supply the know-how, special parts (mechanical and electronic).